Wriggling to survive in Alor
At the bottom of the warm, shallow ocean of Alor, seagrass forms a field where dugongs live for food. On the surface, on a boat whose engine has been turned off, an old man, Onesimus Laa, chants a spell until a dugong hears his call and appears dancing among the subtle ripples of Alor's sea.
Alexandra Maheswari, Dugong and Seagrass Conservation Site Manager Alor, WWF-Indonesia, at that time, 2017, came to Alor with a paper with a question: why did the being known to be shy turn friendly?
One Friday evening, he told me. According to the community, initially the dugong only saw from afar when a boat was seen in the ocean looking for fish. Over time, the more frequent boats passing by, made the solitary mammal look friendly. But at times they looked uncomfortable — like feeling a threat to their home's seagrass bed, turning aggressive, and getting to the boats with their massive bodies capable of pulling the oars. There are several stories about dugongs that refused to get out of the boat, causing their propellers to hurt their tails.
Based on research on dugong behavior conducted by the WWF-Indonesia team with the Alor Marine and Fisheries Service, BPSPL Denpasar Kupang office, BKKPN, and Nusa Cendana University in 2017, changes in dugong behavior were caused by at least two things: being threatened, which later turned protective in region, and is experiencing a reproductive phase. The aggressiveness of these dugongs is quite dangerous for both dugongs and humans.
The change in dugong behavior is then considered by some people as a potential to raise money. At first only one then multiplied, fishing boats started taking curious people out to sea and escorting them to dugongs. Then, the tour to call dugong was created. Unfortunately, travelers' requests to hold a dugong and swim with it are still a priority. They do not understand that there is an ecosystem that could possibly be lost due to the activity of calling dugong.
Dugong dugon, known as dugong, is included in a range of animals that are vulnerable to extinction and is a type of wildlife that is prohibited in all forms of international trade. Meanwhile, the seagrass beds inhabited by dugongs are also home to several other sea creatures such as sea cucumbers, baronangs, and crabs. Preserving dugongs is about preserving the ecosystem; preserving the ecosystem is maintaining human survival.
Dugong Swimming above seagrass bed via WWF-Indonesia/Juraij
"Thankfully, the Alor community has not wanted to hunt dugongs since the early 90s. The last time a dugong was caught was [when a dugong was] accidentally trapped in a fishing net in 2016, then [the community] received socialization [about the dugong] as a protected and endangered animal from the Alor Marine and Fisheries Service, ”Alexa said.
Alexa shared her activities with the community and local government during her three years in Alor. In addition to conducting dugong conservation activities, the community is then involved in managing marine coastal conservation areas through the Community Supervisory Group (Pokmaswas) in the form of a village-based tourism development community.
"We are helping the government and local communities to conduct research, the results of which are then used as recommendations through the Tourism Office and the Marine and Fisheries Service, which have been legalized in the Alor Regent Regulation, that (dugong) is only seen, not allowed to swim and be held; carrying the ship must also turn off the engine upon arrival in the dugong habitat. However, until the end of 2019 they were still not very compliant and in the adjustment stage, ”said Alexa.
Yusuf Tande, another WWF friend, also told me about his activities with the Alor community. Together with the community, Usu conducted mapping and excavation to find attractions that could be options, such as beach tours, mangrove trails, and exploring Sika Island. The intention is simple, to involve many parties so as not to create social jealousy so that the welfare of the community can be maintained. They also provide guidance to the community regarding the importance of conservation, to continue to preserve nature and the environment, as well as supervise illegal activities such as the use of fishing gear that can damage coral reefs such as fish bombs and fish poison, as well as exploitation of sand mining.
Dugong watching from boat via WWF-Indonesia/Mala Tours
"There is already a Kabola Fishermen Communication Forum. Initially only [managed by] one father who became a traditional leader and several community groups and several local fishermen, but now fishermen and other communities have joined them. So, many people are getting involved in tourism and conservation. In FKNK, there is a women's group that can provide food for guests and young people are also involved as guides. Slowly, the community together with the Alor Regional Government are trying to continue to strengthen the existing potential, "added Alexa.
Life is a dilemma. Humans are faced with meeting needs and preserving nature. So I understand that what Alexa, Usu, the community and other parties are doing is a long struggle. Apart from having to seek answers to the questions on the paper, they also assist the community and spread the idea that preserving nature is a shared responsibility, that preserving nature and the environment is in the community's long-term interest.
March, the effects of the coronavirus pandemic arrives in Alor. People stay at home more often. Tourism that is usually stretched is now fading. Tourist activities only run locally and domestically. Residents who depend on tourism must be laid off. The inn owners then returned to their hometowns. The markets are quiet.
Usu then talked about how the Alor people survived during the pandemic. One of the things they do is look back at the sea.
Kabola Tour Guide walks through Kampung Mali, Kabola District, Alor Regency via WWF-Indonesia/Alexandra Maheswari
“Seaweed farming in Alor is quite developed. By fishermen, the catch is transferred to several collectors. Then, from the collectors then marketed to several areas such as Flores, Makassar and Kupang, "explained Usu.
Other than that, they also returned to cultivating the fields, again selling crops to survive. Alor, which is hilly and mountainous, stores crops such as corn, walnuts, secondary crops, candlenuts, and vanilla, commodities that can become a bulwark when tourism is not (anymore) stretched. They are also trying to find other trade routes for weaving and various handicrafts.
Even so, concerns still arise. If there is an economic downturn, there is a chance that destructive fishing activities will occur.
I remembered the words of a friend: humans are the only living things on earth who can be friends with all creatures and at the same time become the only creatures that accelerate the destruction of the earth.
Dugong is just one of many cases of natural exploitation in the name of a double-edged knife called tourism. Many of the travelers are not yet aware of ecology, while their stomachs who are looking for sustenance from tourism must continue to be filled. So we, travelers, should understand the ethics of traveling; that nature must be taken care of anywhere in any way; that local wisdom must be respected and obeyed.
However, in the midst of all the problems, things got out that were quite pleasing to Alexa. The Alor people, who uphold their religious faith, have transformed local wisdom into religious values. Religious elders, through sermons and preaching, spread positive doctrines about the importance of preserving nature and the environment. This is also their response to climate change which is increasingly threatening. So movements were carried out to plant mangroves, reduce the use of plastics, clean up garbage, and conserve and even save water.
This pandemic in the end became a warning for humans to change direction towards behavior that supports the preservation of nature. Slowly, ecological consciousness penetrated the minds of men. In the city, people started farming, even with limited land. In the world of tourism, the big theme of conservation can become the basis for creating a new tourism climate. Even answered questions about survival. Preserving nature is not just talking about the present, but also for future generations. Perhaps conservation is the answer to all problems.
"People who are already literate in tourism usually understand better how to protect their environment in order to enjoy nature and the benefits of tourism in the following years," Alexa continued to pray.
Tuesday night, as of writing this, I received a message from Alexa. It contains several article links about the annual Expo Alor event which is still being held in the midst of the pandemic. Several public activities in the district began running again in July. On the one hand, it is an attempt to turn the wheels of the economy at the local level, as an effort to survive. On the other hand, even though it has been obliged to be carried out with due observance of health protocols, this event still carries risks. Ah, what a dilemma life is.
Perhaps it is true what Pramoedya wrote in the Greenhouse, “How simple life is really. What is complicated is only the twists and turns."
Publish on Telusuri website, accessible on https://telusuri.id/geliat-bertahan-hidup-di-alor/